This state has everything - warm sun, beautiful hikes, canyons, mountains, forests, deserts, even amazing skiing. There’s much more than just retirement communities filled with snow birds. I graduated from Arizona State and although I no longer live there, part of my heart stays behind each time I leave. There are not words for how much I love the red dirt. Lucky for me, my parents are two of the above mentioned snow birds, so I still get to travel down frequently to see them. As much as I love this state, I would not recommend visiting between May and September due to the heat - did you know they cancel flights when it gets too hot?? But in the fall, winter, and spring, Arizona is fantastic. This post includes my favorites things to do while in AZ to get you started planning for a future trip.
Flights on weekends can be expensive, but are generally more affordable during the week. The priciest part of visiting AZ if you fly is going to be your car rental. I’d recommend knowing what taxes to expect before you rent so it doesn’t surprise you when you get there. Another option is a road trip. I’ve driven the path between MN and AZ more times than I can remember, with kids too. Need survival tips? Read my post below for ideas of what to do in the car.
If you do fly, you’ll likely be flying into the Sky Harbor Airport in Phoenix. My suggested ideas are going to start in Phoenix and then go counterclockwise around the state (with miles from Phoenix provided for reference).
Phoenix, AZ
Papago Park and Desert Botanical Gardens
Papago Park is just north of Tempe and houses both the Phoenix Zoo and the Desert Botanical Gardens. Papago Park has several short easy hiking trails, including Hole-in-the-Rock (0.2 miles). There are also longer loops like the Double Butte Loop Trail (2.3 miles).
Hiking at Papago Park is free, but the Botanical Gardens has a fee. Check the website for ticket prices. Within the Desert Botanical Gardens there are several paved trails (similar to a zoo) that lead to stunning displays of cacti and other natural desert plants. If you won’t have much of a chance to go hiking out in the desert, this is a nice way to see the variety of plants that grow in the desert in a quick condensed tour that has been beautifully landscaped. There are lots of learning opportunities throughout the gardens and have your kids keep their eyes out for little lizards.
Arizona State University
The main Tempe campus of ASU is an Arboretum. There are roads around but not thru campus, so it’s very pleasant to walk through. My favorite places to wander are the Hayden Library mall area and the “secret garden”. The secret garden is between Dixie Gammage Hall and West Hall. From the outside, there is no apparent garden, but the building is just a perimeter around the garden in the middle. To find the entry, walk around the building. The entrance is a tunnel, so look for a ramp going downwards. It’s more fun to stumble upon this by yourself, so that’s all I’ll say of how to find it.
Before you leave, head over to the North side of Campus. There is a short and easy trail up to the summit of A Mountain (Hayden Butte).
Camelback Mountain
Camelback Mountain is in the middle of the Phoenix Metropolitan in the Scottsdale Area. It’s a very popular hiking location due to it being free and conveniently located. It provides great views of the sprawling city below. There are two trails to get reach the summit (~1290 ft gain in elevation). Both trails are intense and involve some scrambling over boulders when you get towards the top. Echo Canyon Trail is my favorite of the two trails. This trail starts on the Northwest side of the mountain (4925 E. McDonald Dr.). This trail is a little shorter (1.25 miles to the summit) and steeper, but the trail to the top is a little better defined. The second trail is Cholla, which starts on the Southeast side of the mountain (6131 E. Cholla Ln.). This trail is 1.5 miles to the summit.
Saguaro Lake
If you’d like to hike in the desert without the city views, there are several lakes along the Salt River west of the Phoenix Metro. The first lake along the river traveling from Phoenix is Saguaro Lake. Butcher Jones Trail is an out and back trail (4.9 miles each way) around Saguaro Lake without much elevation gain. Note that you’ll need a pass to park. If you have the National Park Annual Pass it will work, just leave the car on your dashboard. If you don’t have a pass, stop at the Saguaro Lake Marina before you go up to the trail head (which is in the picnic area). The daily pass for the Tonto National Forest is $8.00. There is no water, and this could be a longer hike if you go the whole way, so plan accordingly.
South Mountain
South Mountain is another regional park with several hikes throughout. In addition to hiking, this mountain has a road that goes to the summit. I like to drive up towards the end of the day to watch the sunset and see the lights of the city below turn on. Expect crowds at the top. The hiking trails throughout the mountain are less busy.
Movie Night at Kiwanis Park
At the end of the day, consider heading over to Kiwanis Park in Tempe, AZ for a movie under the stars. Movies are on Friday nights and start at dusk. Check the Tempe City website to see which movies are playing.
Another cheap idea at Kiwanis Park on a hot day – Ice Blocking. This park has several hills. Grab a towel and buy a block of ice at the gas station. This is equivalent to sledding in the summer.
Scorpion Hunting
I’m guessing this isn’t on a Top 10 list for people living in the desert that have to deal with scorpions as pests in their home, but for kids that live in the North and Midwest parts of the country, I guarantee hunting for scorpions will be a hit. To find them at night, you need a blacklight – you can buy blacklight flashlights on Amazon. The scorpion’s exoskeleton glows in the dark and turns a neon greenish blue. Most residential areas spray for scorpions, so you hopefully won’t find them in neighborhoods, but if you go out to a park, like Lake Pleasant Regional Park, walk out a small way onto a trail or find a picnic area a little bit away from the parking lot, and start lifting up larger rocks. Finding the first one will likely make your heart jump, but they don’t move very fast and they aren’t going to hurt you. Just put the rock back.
Spring Training Baseball Game
If you’d like an outdoor, but non-hiking suggestion and you are in Phoenix over Spring Break, consider going to a Spring Training Baseball Game. Several teams have fields down in the Phoenix area. It’s inexpensive to go to a non-season game – or you can spend what you normally would on a game but get front row seats.
Tucson, AZ
(115 miles from Phoenix, 1 hour 45 mins) We used to joke with our University of AZ friends that the only the only thing to do in Tucson is to drive to Phoenix, but I do have a few favorites in this part of the state.
Picacho Peak
(75 miles from Phoenix) On the way to Tucson, just off of I10 is Picacho Peak State Park. (As it’s a state park, there is an entrance fee of $7.00 per vehicle.) This mountain has two trails that meet in the mountain saddle and join together for the final summit. Both trails result in an elevation gain of almost 2,000 ft. Hunter Trail is a 2.4 mile hike from the trail head to the summit. Sunset Vista Trail is 3.1 miles from the trail head to the summit. Your choices are shorter and steeper or longer and less steep. After reaching the saddle, the trail gets very steep and requires the use of steel cables that are anchored into the rocks. This looks intimidating, but it isn’t that hard to actually climb up or down using the cables. It helps to have gloves. I think you could bring kids on this trail, probably 8 or older. They might need a little help, and it will take you a little longer, but don’t let the cables prevent you from trying. Worst case you make it halfway and then turn around after having a beautiful hike. If you plan on not going to the final summit, then stop before the trail goes downward. You’ll hit the cables shortly afterwards and if you don’t want to try that park of the hike, you’ll just have to turn around and hike back up the part that you came down. Remember as with all desert hiking to bring plenty of water. My husband and I loved this trail so much that we named our cat Picacho after this mountain.
Sonora Desert Museum
The Sonora Desert Museum is both a botanical garden and a zoo, all set in desert landscaping. Plan to spend at least a half of a day here. There are several exhibits – my favorites are Cat Canyon and the Hummingbird Aviary. Check their website for pricing.
Saguaro National Park
This National Park is situated very close to the Sonora Desert Museum. Unless you plan on long hikes, these two places make for a full day. Saguaro National Park is chuck-filled with Saguaro cacti. Growing up in MN, I think of trees when I think of a forest, but this park is a forest of cacti. Stop in the Visitor Center first. Learn about the nurse plants that help the younger Saguaro cacti and how old the cacti are when they get their first arm. You will appreciate the cacti even more after learning about them. This is a big park with lots of hiking options. There are short hikes, long hikes, little elevation changes, and lots of elevation changes. Personally, in this park I like hiking up into the mountains to feel more a part of the landscape. Douglas Spring Trail is a beautiful backcountry trail. Talk with the Rangers about what you are interested in and get a map. Again, this is desert hiking so be prepared with enough water.
Seven Falls (Sabino Canyon)
Sabino Canyon is on the outskirts of Tucson, and even if you don’t plan to do much hiking, I’d recommend just driving out there and doing some of the flat short walks near the parking lot ($5 to park). If you’re feeling adventurous, try the Seven Falls hike. From the parking lot to the waterfalls and back is 8.2 miles. When my son was 8, we hiked this trail together, and it’s one of my favorite memories to date with him. The beginning of the trail is flat and crosses a creek several times. There are several Saguaro cacti. Towards the end of the trail, there are switchbacks and the trail climbs 917 feet in elevation. The trail then goes down to the water. We didn’t get all the way in as the water was really cold, but it was nice to dip our toes in. We didn’t hike on a particularly hot day, but the entire trail is in the sun without much shade. Bring more water than you think you’ll need, take your time, and enjoy. With kids, this hike will take the majority of the day.
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Kartchner Caverns State Park
(53 miles, 50 mins southeast of Tucson)
If you’ve made it to Tucson, I’d recommend going a little further to Kartchner Caverns State Park. The cave is tucked inside a mountain. The inside of the cave is filled with colorful stalactites, stalagmites and other structures, and it borders with Jewel Cave as being the pretties cave I’ve been inside. The cave also has a history of discovery and secrecy until it could be properly protected as a State Park. The story is inspirational as it provides an example of how powerful pure passion and determination can be. There is an admission charge to go on a cave tour, and the tours are at specific times. Check the park’s website for information before you visit, and you can also pre-book your cave tour.
Chiricahua National Monument
(117 miles, 1 hour 50 mins east of Tucson) This National Monument is very far off the beaten path, and not conveniently on the way to anything else particularly popular. That said, this park is surrounded by a quiet peacefulness due to its remoteness. Chiricahua has numerous hoodoos and curiously balanced rocks that look only possible if someone intentionally placed them in such a way. It’s an incredible sight.
Once you are in the park, drive down the Bonita Canyon Drive and stop at the lookouts. There are some nice trails at the end of the drive. We hiked down into Echo Canyon and used Hailstone Trail and Ed Riggs Trail to make a loop of 3.1 miles. I think we only saw one other family hiking, so we really felt that we had this park to ourselves. There is a warning in the park map to travel only during the daylight and not by yourself due to the park potentially being used by the cartel. I didn’t think of this prior to planning our trip there, and I don’t think that would have changed my mind in wanting to go there, but it’s worth mentioning in case you are thinking of a solo hike and might want to reconsider.
Sunrise Ski Resort
(220 miles, 4 hours east of Phoenix)
Bet you don’t think of skiing when you think of Arizona. Sunrise has three mountains: Sunrise Peak (10,700ft), Apache Peak (11,000ft), and Cyclone Circle (10,700ft). There are 65 trails and 10 chairlifts including 3 quads. My favorite part of skiing here - the four hour drive back to sunshine and warmth in Phoenix. If only I still had it so easy when I was tired of snow now.
Petrified Forest National Park
(212 miles, 3 hours 30 mins northeast of Phoenix)
This National Park is a great roadway stop if you are travelling on I-40 as the park is not far from the Interstate. This park is situated in a desert and features the Rainbow Forest, fossilized trees from the late Triassic Period (~225 million years ago). In addition to the petrified wood, this park also features hoodoos and archaeological structures and petroglyphs from Native Americans living in the region as long as 13,000 years ago. There are several short and easy to moderate hikes to stretch your legs. Painted Desert Rim Trail (1 mile round trip), Crystal Forest Trail (0.75 mile loop), Giant Logs Trail (0.4 mile loop), and Long Log Trail (1.6 mile loop)
Monument Valley
(316 miles, 5 hours Northeast of Phoenix)
If you find yourself driving between Phoenix and Moab, UT, plan to stop at Monument Valley. This park has been featured in several old western movies and more recently in Forest Gump. This is not a National Park, but is an equivalent Navajo Tribal Park. As such, your National Park Pass will not work here, and there is a separate fee to enter the park ($10 per person or $20 per vehicle).
There is a Visitor Center, a 17 mile road to travel through the park, and one trail that can be hiked. The drive is the Tribal Park Loop, and it has several places to get out of the car for short walks and pictures. Note that this is a dirt road and it may be unpassable if it has recently rained.
The Wildcat Trail goes around the Mittens and is quoted as a 3.2 mile loop. In my experience, this was a really hard trail to follow as it wasn’t well defined. When we later asked why, we were told that the Navajo do not think of a “trail” in the same manner that we traditionally do, that it is instead more of a “way” that you can go. Consequently, while we were walking on this “trail” we found ourselves more in the middle of the desert wilderness. Not lost, as we could see the butte we were walking around, but it was hard to find an efficient way to walk around the crevices and other obstacles. As such, we eventually backtracked and walked the same way back out. But it was a nice walk in the desert and we came upon wild horses, which was made the hike special.
Antelope Canyon
(277 miles, 4 hours 15 minutes north of Phoenix)
Antelope Canyon is on the road between Moab, UT, and the Grand Canyon. If you want to go there as a day trip from the Grand Canyon it is 112 miles, 1 hour 50 mins. Antelope Canyon is a slot canyon. It’s very easy to walk down into and through, it’s well lit and the slots are plenty wide enough to walk comfortably through. The sunlight and colors of the walls make this canyon a must-do. To visit Antelope Canyon, you do have to take a guided tour, but it is very much worth the cost. There are a few tour options. We picked Ken’s Tours, and our tour guide even set up our phones and cameras for the best settings so our pictures would turn out while we were in the canyon. They also offer specific tours just for people interested in photography. There are two sections to the canyon - Upper and Lower and there are different tours for each section. Look here to find the best option for you and pre-book beforehand so you don’t drive all the way out and find out that the tours are booked. It was very busy when we went, but the tour groups are small, so the only time we noticed the crowd was at the building while we were waiting for our tour to start.
Grand Canyon National Park - North Rim
(352 miles, 5 hours, 42 minutes north of Phoenix)
Logistically, the North Rim of the Grand Canyon is difficult to get to. The roads are only open May 15 – Oct 15 annually, there is only one hotel option (Grand Canyon Lodge), and it’s not relatively near any city. That said, of the two sides, the North Rim is better. In addition to its beauty, it has a very different relaxed and peaceful feel that isn’t possible on the South Rim due to all the people. The North Rim is about 1000 ft higher in elevation than the South Rim which makes the temperatures very comfortable in the summer. Unfortunately, I wouldn’t recommend many of the other places on this list for May-October, so if this is on a bucket list, this trip might have to be done on its own or perhaps combine it with Bryce Canyon in Utah, which is also high in elevation.
The other option is to start on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, hike to the bottom, cross one of the bridges, and hike up to the North Rim (23.5 miles Rim to Rim using the Bright Angel Trail or 21 miles Rim to Rim using the South Kaibab Trail, plus 1.5 miles on the North Rim to get to the lodge). And once your on the North Rim, you’ll have to figure out how to get back to your car, which you left on the South Rim… Your choices are walking back, the Trans Canyon Bus Service, or plan the hike with a second group of hikers going the other direction and switch car keys at the bottom. Don’t try this with kids and commit to training at least 6 months beforehand so you are ready for the physical and mental challenge of this hike. I want to promote this option as it was the best hike of my life, but at the same time I do this cautiously, as this was also the hardest thing I’ve ever done physically and mentally. More of my story is in the below post.
Grand Canyon National Park - South Rim
(228 miles, 3 hours 30 mins)
If you are going to the Grand Canyon, most likely you are going to the South Rim and most likely you are not hiking all the way to the bottom. If you have a day, this is what I would recommend instead.
South Kaibab Trail
When you get to the Grand Canyon, ask about the bus shuttle system. This is your easiest way to get around the park. In the morning, before the sun rises, park your car and take the bus to the South Kaibab Trailhead. Hike down the trail to Ooh Aah Point (0.9 miles one way), stop and watch the sun rise. If you want to hike further, go to Skeleton Point (3 miles one way). This is where you will get your first glimpse of the Colorado River. Don’t go further than this, unless you plan to go all the way down. Skeleton Point is the halfway point, and this is an incredibly steep trail to hike back up. If you do plan to go to the river, use the Bright Angel Trail to go up as it has water. The South Kaibab Trail has outhouses for the bathroom but no water.
Mather Point and the Visitor Center
You can’t go to the Grand Canyon without going to Mather Point, although there is going to be a large crowd at this viewpoint. This is also right next to the Visitor Center, which has a great video that explains some of the park’s geology. Then take the bus to the Bright Angel Lodge.
Bright Angel Trail
If you only have time to hike down one trail, pick the South Kaibab trail as the view changes. The Bright Angel Trail will spend the majority of the first miles zigzagging through this view until you get to Indian Gardens. If you do choose to hike down the Bright Angel Trail, the 3 Mile Rest Area is a good place to stop. You could also go down to Indian Gardens and out to Plateau Point, but if you do this, start early in the morning. This hike down and up is 11.4 miles and involves hiking back up 3,254 ft. At our last trip to the Grand Canyon, we stopped and talked with a family on their way down the Bright Angel Trail at about 3:30pm. We casually asked where they were going, and they said they were thinking Plateau Point. Nobody in the family was carry a backpack. I asked if they had water and a flashlight. They paused and looked at me before the mom asked “why?” Don’t be these people. We gave them a suggestion of where to watch the sun set and they walked back up the trail.
The best gift stores are near the Bright Angel Trailhead, so even if you don’t plan on hiking, head over towards the Bright Angel lodge for souvenirs, and enjoy the rim views.
ShoShone Point
The best place I’ve found to watch a quiet sunset on the Grand Canyon South Rim is Shoshone Point. The trailhead isn’t marked, which is why it’s quiet. From Grand Canyon Village, go east along Route 64 towards Desert View and Cameron. About two miles past Grandview, there will be a very small dirt parking lot on your left (near mile marker 246). It’s the only dirt road parking lot that you will see in the nearby area. Park here and follow the small dirt road into the woods. In about a mile, you will come out of the woods onto the rocks of the rim. There are picnic tables and pit toilets. Keep hiking out onto the rocks to find a place you are comfortable to sit and rest while you enjoy the solitude and the colors as the sun is setting.
One other piece of useful information for first time Grand Canyon visitors – there are no single use water bottles sold within the National Park. Either buy your own beforehand, or bring a refillable water bottle.
Havasu Falls
(260 miles, 5 hours north of Phoenix)
Havasu Falls is on my list, but I haven’t yet tried this trail out yet. Most likely this is a backpack overnight trip, and my husband and I haven’t yet had the courage to try. I am in the process of investigating how to do this with gear weight that I’m comfortable hiking with. If you have suggestions on backpacking for first timers, I’d love to hear your thoughts to make this trail possible as I’d rather not have to use the tour guide service with mules.
Sedona
(117 miles, 2 hours north of Phoenix)
Sedona is my second favorite city to visit (following Moab, UT). To park at most trail heads in Sedona, you first need a Red Rock Pass or a National Park Annual Pass. You can purchase the Red Rock Pass at the Red Rock Ranger District Visitor Center, Oak Creek Visitor Center, or a few other locations (check here). There are countless hikes to choose from in Sedona. I’d suggest stopping at one of the visitor centers to ask for suggestions based on what you’re interested (length, elevation change, rock features, etc.) Here are my favorites:
Bell Rock
(1.5 miles) From the trailhead to the back of Bell Rock is 0.75 miles. You can climb up on the rock or add on with other trails. There are several trails which intersect on the backside. The trail is relatively flat and easy hiking. If you are vortex hunting (I’ll let you google this on your own), there is one on the back of Bell Rock. My dad thinks I’m crazy, but this one I’m pretty confident I found. At worst it’s make-believe but still a beautiful hike. At best, it’s real, and the electromagnetic force restores your inner energy.
Boynton Canyon
(6.0 miles) Boynton Canyon is a nice longer hike through a box canyon. The best scenery is in the second half of the hike as the trail climbs up into the canyon. This is an easy trail to follow without too much scrambling needed over rocks, but the trail does climb up in elevation.
Cathedral Rock
(2.0 miles) This is a short there and back hike, but don’t let that fool you into thinking this is an easy hike. There is a steep slickrock that you scale up, followed by some boulder climbing. I’d recommend hiking poles if you have them which makes this a little easier. The trail ends with some steep switchbacks. The view of the valley below is amazing.
Devils Bridge
(4.0 miles) There are two options to start this hike – Secret Canyon or Chuckwagon Trail. The trail ends with an arch which creates Devil’s Bridge. You can walk out onto to the bridge if you dare.
Pink Jeep
In addition to hiking, I recommend the Pink Jeeps. A little pricey, but fun for every age. The Broken Arrow tour goes off road onto the rocks for a lot more adventure. The tour guides will teach you about the history of the city and those that lived before the city as well.
Dining
My favorite place to eat in Sedona is the Cowboy Club. Try the sweet potato fries.
Art
In addition to amazing hikes, Sedona is also home to beautiful artwork. Stop at Tlaquepaque is and spend a few hours wandering through the shops.
Feel free to use the Comments Section to add your favorite places and hikes in AZ.